Odd this day

Coates
3 min readAug 20, 2023

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So, happy 90th anniversary to this diary entry, whose last line you will not be able to predict.

VENICE, August 20th, 1933. — Here as a joy-hog: a pleasant change after that pension on the Giudecca two years ago. We went to the Lido this morning, and the Doge’s Palace looked more beautiful from a speed-boat than it ever did from a gondola. The bathing, on a calm day, must be the worst in Europe: water like hot saliva, cigar-ends floating into one’s mouth, and shoals of jelly-fish. Lifar came to dinner. Bertie mentioned that all whales have syphilis.

It’s the opening paragraph of writer/explorer Robert Byron’s book The Road to Oxiana, about his journey around the Middle East in 1933–4.

Title page, The Road to Oxiana, by Robert Byron, Macmillan, 1937, with a photo of a 14th century mosque with stone dome on the facing page

Historian Paul Fussell said of the book:

“Its distinction tempts one to overpraise, but perhaps it may not be going too far to say that what Ulysses is to the novel between the wars, and what The Waste Land is to poetry, The Road to Oxiana is to the travel book.”

You can pick copies up quite cheaply on abebooks, and find out more on this blog, but if you know anything about this blog, you may not be surprised to know that we’ve finished talking about the book now.

Yes, I’m interested in the idea that all whales have syphilis. Obviously. One might simply respond to this notion by being amused, and perhaps repeating the newly found factoid down the pub. Or one might google ‘whale syphilis’.

When I googled ‘whale syphilis’, I came across Canada’s University of Victoria, and specifically its professor of biochemistry and microbiology, Caroline Cameron, who studies spirochetes and other pathogens in marine mammals. Not only did I email her; she replied.

Apparently, the answer is that whales can catch the herpes virus, and sea lions and seals can be colonised by Leptospira, “a spirochete related to the spirochete that causes syphilis”. Humans, too, “have a plethora of spirochete bacteria in their mouth”.

Toothed whales (also being mammals) may well, too, “including ones of the Treponema genus (same genus as the bacterium that causes syphilis). By the 1930s, the darkfield microscope was being used to diagnose syphilis and visualize Treponema pallidum…”

At the time, “syphilis numbers were extremely high worldwide (this was right before penicillin), and whaling was also prevalent. Perhaps someone, somewhere, looked at the teeth of whales under a microscope…”

If they had, they would have seen “the characteristic corkscrew shape of a bacterium, and suggested the theory that whales have syphilis?” And there, I think, we (almost certainly) have it. You’re all very welcome.

And thank you, Professor Cameron (who is using her knowledge more wisely than I am, and trying to develop a syphilis vaccine, which could well be useful when antibiotic resistance really comes for us as a species.

Oh yes — I nearly forgot. If you prefer meaty history to obscure questions of biology, though, today is also the 351st anniversary of that time the Dutch killed and ate their prime minister.

Which was nice.

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Coates
Coates

Written by Coates

Purveyor of niche drivel; marker of odd anniversaries

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